The Artful Table Serves Ambrosia

We've dined at the Artful Table three times this year, and we're torn between recommending this hidden jewel of a restaurant and just keeping it a secret. It's more than just a restaurant. Located on Route 6A at the Kingsway development in Yarmouthport, it is one of the few truly fine dining experiences on Cape Cod.

The Artful Table has survived a couple of owners since it opened at this location 3 years ago. Then, the founders of the Artful Hand in Truro, opened a trendier version of the original in the clubhouse of the Kingsway Golf Club. This year the Table is run by chef Bob Hickey and his wife, very hands on, and it shows.

Originally envisioned as the dining option of the member community of mostly retired couples, the Table today relies on the general public to dine there too. It has however, not been successful in attracting many outsiders to venture in. Their loss, our gain.

Food
On our most recent visit we tried the seafood again. The salmon was grilled to perfection. Its natural flavor was seared in and cooked through. The diced cucumber accompanying it was a curious choice but went well with the Asian rice. All together, this good food is good for you too. Any dietician or cardiologist would approve.

We also tried the baked scallops. A favorite of locals for a hundred years, they got this dish right with just the right amount of butter and cracker topping to please even the most skeptical scallop lover. The green beans that came with, were fresh and crisp, and the rice again worked well.

The clam chowder with native clams was succulent as an appetizer. On other occasions we sampled the coconut battered fried shrimp, awesome, and Chinese potstickers, wicked good.

Also on previous visits we ordered the roasted chicken, baked scrod, sirloin steak, and pasta. All were prepared well, served hot and in good portions.

Dessert this time was a real treat, homemade grapenut custard, and handmade tiramissou. Both were extraordinary, like eating ambrosia with a spoon, in giant helpings.

Wine & Cocktails
The Table has a very interesting selection of "martini" concoctions. But no gin here. The wine list is varied and appealing, making it easy to select a bottle. Many good Californians to choose from. Skip the Europeans. Wine, by the glass is expensive, but by the bottle, fairly priced.

Service
On each occasion we dined without a reservation. The main dining room, set precisely for dinner with white tablecloths, full service of china, silverware and glassware, can be a bit intimidating to the casual diner. Not to worry, this is still Cape Cod.

The white shirted, full length black apron-clad waiters (waitresses) cut an imposing figure, but underneath their austere appearance are the sweetest young servers on the Cape. Their youth is disguised well by their training, and their exuberance makes up for any inexperience. Their desire to please the diner was truly refreshing. The service was, to say the least, outstanding.

Atmosphere
A combination of bar and restaurant allows one to dine casually in the former, or formally in the latter. But on most evenings the clientele are older foursomes or lately, grandparents, parents and grandkids. Nice to see multigenerational tables in public.

The building is out of architectural digest while the dining room, overlooking the golf course, is aesthetically pleasing. Relatively small, it has an intimate feel, especially at sunset. The restaurant is immaculate, as are the surrounding clubhouse grounds.

Once again we ventured out for a fine dining experience on Cape Cod and this newest version of The Artful Table did not disappoint. The food was excellent, the service impeccable, the atmosphere delightful, and the location serene. As close as you will get to perfection on Cape Cod.

We give The Artful Table *** (out of 3) the highest rating, to go with $$$ (out of 3) as it was a bit expensive. But you too will get carried away somewhere between the cocktails and dessert.

Barnstable Tavern Half Way Home

Reviewing the latest version of the Barnstable Tavern on Route 6A in Barnstable Village, now includes Restaurant in the name, but might also be described an Italian Grill.

On this night we dined with friends, and were able to sample more menu items and get other opinions on the food. The traditional menu of American favorites, like steaks and seafood, now features pasta, which seems to be the specialty of Bob Calderone, the new owner chef. Only thing missing in this extensive menu was pizza, but you can still get a cheeseburger.

Food
Appetizers - 3 of us had appetizers, which were all prepared with gusto. The grilled asparagus wrapped with prosciutto on a bed of greens was excellent. The beet salad with blue cheese and citrus was just the right combination of flavors to make this large portion an offbeat treat. And the Cesar salad was light and garlicy as a first dish should be, but maybe not for a first date.
In the end, the appetizers were the highlight of the meal.

Entrees - 3 three of us gravitated to the Italian selections on the menu. One to seafood. The penne with prosciutto and peas in Parmesan cream sauce was delicious. A more modern version of the pasta carbonara. The penne bolognaise, was a hearty and tasty edition of a traditional Italian favorite. Again with portions large enough to share. The sauteed scrod was overpowered by a scallion, tomato and peppers sauce. Served with mashed and beans, it was a passable meal.

Wine (Cocktails)
We started with cocktails at the bar as the restaurant was busy on this evening with lots of holdovers from the live entertainment on the outside patio staying for dinner. And with a high demand for glasses, our bartender improvised when she ran out, and served our martinis in margarita glasses, which provided a delightful conversation piece.

At dinner we decided to order wine by the glass, because the wine list, which can only be described as pedestrian, did not inspire a bottle.

Service
A combination of hosts at the door was a bit confusing but functional. Some familiar faces behind the bar put us at ease. And after a very short wait, we were introduced to a booth table and a very pleasant waitress. She was a bit distracted at first, but became very attentive as the evening moved along. She knew the menu and steered us to the chef's strengths. She even gave us a quick recap of his resume. We were not an easy party, but she handled us with style and herself with grace. Kudos.

Atmosphere
The Tavern is an historic structure, and as such does not lend itself to a makeover. The interior is pretty much the same as always, with a few additions to the colonial era-decor like the pastureseque mural near the kitchen. Lots of bustle to go with hustle on this evening, serving large parties, extended families mostly, and locals.

The Tavern, which in its newest incarnation can more aptly be called the Taverna, still has a way to go. We give the overall dining experience ** (out of ***) and rate the price about $$ (out of $$$) depending on how many $9 martinis you order.

It was a fun outing to an old stand-by. But just like in the days of the coach traveling down the Old King's Highway, the new Barnstable Restaurant & Tavern is only a stop on the journey, not the ultimate destination.

Grille 16 Shoots and Scores

Reviewing the latest edition to the Hyannis fine dining scene.

We always follow the golden rule of dining and wait until a restaurant is at least a month old before trying it. The success of a restaurant and dining experience depends on three things; the food, the service and the atmosphere. It is very difficult to get all three right at the same time, and sometimes takes years.

Food
We ordered 2 seafood dishes, yes, at a steakhouse. But a good way to judge a restaurant's strengths is by tasting its weaknesses.

The haddock was to die for. A great piece of fresh fish. The seared scallops, not so much. Pretty typical for this region. The fish came with roasted potatoes and beans, about what you'd expect. The scallops were complemented with finely grilled asparagus and lobster mashed potato. The latter accounted for the higher price of the dish and was unintentionally cold.

Both however, were lacking any distinctive flavors, almost to the point of being bland. Everything on the plate could have used a little bit of salt.

Wine
We ordered a bottle of local sparkling wine, which is always a treat, but more so this time because it was cheaper here. The wine list, although it includes some very pricey selections, is generally underpriced. Especially compared to the overpriced food menu.

Service
On this rainy evening the restaurant seemed over staffed. The hostesses were courteous, young and attractive. The waiters were very attentive and solicitous. They were well versed in the new menu and maintained an even pace of service throughout the evening, checking in with us frequently.

Atmosphere
Grille 16 is the latest version of the Asa Bearse House on Main Street in Hyannis. Each time the interior is redone, it gets a little bit nicer. Although lacking in color or distinctive design, the unusual configuration of the rooms and variations in lighting provide enough distraction for the eye to be pleasing. And of course, there's always people-watching. The clientele was mostly Hyannisport types.

The dinner was accented by a visit to our table by the owner, Derek Sanderson, who was wandering the dining rooms all evening, knowing just when to stop by a table to check on his patrons.

In all, the experience was a good one. Enough to go back and try the steak. We give the Grille 16 *** to go with its $$$ . www.grille16.com